Skincare has exploded in the last few years from a simple cleanse, tone and moisturise to ingredient-driven routines and DIY devices. This 2025 guide cuts through the hype and you’ll learn what each core ingredient really does (retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, glycolic), what’s new (growth factors, exosomes), how to layer them without irritation, and how to choose products for your skin type.
If you prefer a custom consultation, then please do get in touch with us
The Progression of Skincare
Skincare hasn’t always been the multi-step ritual it is today. For decades, it was relatively straightforward: cleanse, moisturise, maybe add in a toner and that was enough for most people.
- By the 1980s, exfoliators like the infamous Aapri Apricot scrub had made their way into bathroom cabinets. Every teenager at the time roughly scrubbed their skin and then applied Clearasil to any offending pimples hoping for a quick miracle.
- The 1990s and 2000s saw the rise of luxury creams such as Crème de la Mer and La Prairie, promising transformation from a single jar. We also began to see new formats: cleansing balms such as Eve Lom, double cleansing, and actives like retinol, vitamin C and alpha hydroxy acids becoming more widely available.
- In 2016, brands like The Ordinary changed the landscape again, making actives accessible at a fraction of the price. Great for budgets, but it also left many people layering multiple products without really understanding how they should work together , leading to compromised skin barriers, rebound pigmentation and irritation.
Fast forward to today, and skincare is becoming increasingly sophisticated (sometimes a little too sophisticated with the rise of 15 step Korean skincare routines). We are now focused more than ever on
- barrier repair (ceramides, squalane)
- hydration (hyaluronic acid)
- targeted actives applied in the right order and strength
- bio-advanced ingredients such as growth factors, polynucleotides and exosomes
At Borciani London, we combine these advanced actives with in-clinic treatments such as microneedling, Profhilo and mesotherapy — giving patients both short and long-term skin benefits.
How to Navigate the Complex World of Skincare in 2025
In the last two decades, skincare has evolved into a complex blend of science and marketing with new ingredients make headlines almost monthly, often promoted on social media as “miracle cures”. This has lead to a really confusing landscape and no clear path to accurate data.
That being said, there have been some remarkable developments in technology in the last few years: growth factors, polynucleotides and exosomes are now trending for in-clinic procedures. Brands such as AnteAGE and Cellderma have been using growth factors in skincare for many years, and we’re now seeing the emergence of exosomes in plant based forms of biosomes
The key is not to buy everything that’s trending, but to build a smart routine that combines proven ingredients with advanced options when they’re right for you.
Skincare Essentials in 2025
For those seeking some clarity amidst the chaos, these tried-and-tested ingredients remain the backbone of effective skincare:
SPF, SPF, SPF, SPF
This is non negotiable, it is the product that will do the most for anti-ageing, pigmentation, inflammation. Yes, it’s not the most glamorous or exciting element of skincare but is absolutely the most essential:
*check our our handpicked SPF’s here
Retinols, Retinoids (Retin A)
What It Does:
- Boosts skin cell turnover, smoothing fine lines and fading pigmentation.
- Improves collagen production and prevents premature ageing.
- Best for: ageing, acne-prone or uneven-textured skin.
*Try: Skinbetter Science AlphaRet Overnight Cream
Tips: Use at night and start slowly if you are new to Retinols
Vitamin C
- Potent antioxidant that brightens skin and protects against oxidative stress.
- Stimulates collagen and reduces pigmentation.
- Best for: dull, uneven or sun-damaged skin.
*Try: Revision Skincare C Correcting Complex
Hyaluronic Acid
- Attracts and holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water.
- Instantly plumps skin, improves elasticity and smoothness.
- Best for: all skin types, especially dry or dehydrated.
* Try: Skinbetter Science Hydration Boosting Cream.
* In-clinic: Profhilo for deep dermal hydration.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
- Calms redness, strengthens the skin barrier and balances oil.
- Helps minimise pore size and improves texture.
- Best for: oily, sensitive or acne-prone skin.
*Try: Cellderma Youth Restore
*Try:Alto Advance Defense and Repair Serum
Ceramides
- Reinforce the skin barrier, lock in moisture and protect against pollution.
- Best for: dry, sensitive or over-exfoliated skin.
*Try: Skinbetter Science Trio Luxe Moisture Treatment
Growth Factors
- Stimulate repair, improve elasticity and speed up recovery.
- Work particularly well after microneedling or laser
*Try: AnteAGE MD Serum & Accelerator.
*In-clinic: microneedling with exosomes and polynucleotides.
Squalane
- Lightweight oil that mimics natural sebum, deeply hydrating without clogging pores.
- Antioxidant benefits protect against environmental damage.
- Best for: dehydrated or sensitive skin.
*Try: SkinBetter Science Trio Rebalancing Treatment
Alpha Arbutin
- Safe brightening agent that reduces pigmentation and melasma.
- Best for: uneven tone, dark spots and post-acne marks.
* Try: SkinBetter Science Even Tone Correcting Serum
Glycolic Acid (AHA)
- Exfoliates dead cells, boosts radiance and helps with pigmentation.
- Stimulates collagen with regular use.
- Best for: dull, uneven or oily skin types.
*Try: Skinbetter AlphaRet Exfoliating Peel Pads.
* Related: What are chemical peels?
How to layer your products: A beginners routine (am/pm)
Follow these simple routines and you will see results whilst avoiding over treating the skin and experiencing sensitivity.
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AM: Cleanser → Vitamin C (or Niacinamide if sensitive) → Hyaluronic Acid → Moisturiser → SPF 30+
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PM (2–3×/week to start): Cleanser → Retinol→ Moisturiser (barrier-support with ceramides/squalane)
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Alternate nights if required: Exfoliating acid (e.g., glycolic pads) on nights you’re not using retinol.
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Sensitive? Start retinol 2×/week, sandwich with moisturiser (“moisturiser → retinol → moisturiser”).
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Pigmentation focus: Add alpha arbutin in AM before vitamin C or on alternate days.
As with all active skincare, it’s really important to start slowly, this avoids sensitivity and protects your skin barrier.
How to Navigate the Ingredient Maze
- Consult with experts: Getroutine a customised with an in-clinic consultation.
- Focus on your concerns: Build routines around your biggest issues — acne, dryness, pigmentation.
- Start simple: Begin with a few essentials and build gradually.
- Patch test actives: Introduce retinols, glycolic acid or new products slowly.
- Consistency is key: Don’t expect to reverse 20 years of damage in 30 days.
In conclusion: embrace the complexity, but keep it personal
Skincare in 2025 is a testament to how far science and innovation have come. With groundbreaking ingredients like growth factors, exosomes, and NAD+ joining trusted staples like retinols and vitamin C, the options are endless – but they don’t have to be overwhelming.
At Borciani London, we make navigating this world easier with expert consultations, carefully selected products and advanced treatments. Skincare isn’t about perfection; it’s about consistency, care, and embracing the journey towards healthier skin.
References
https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog/why-is-topical-vitamin-c-important-for-skin-health-202111102635
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best skincare routine in 2025?
A balanced routine with proven actives (retinols, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid) plus advanced ingredients such as growth factors or exosomes where suitable. Consistency matters more than the number of products.
Do I need all the trending ingredients?
No. The key is to choose ingredients suited to your skin type. Over-layering can damage your skin barrier and cause irritation. Start with essentials and add targeted products only when needed.
How do I layer skincare products?
AM: Cleanser → Vitamin C or Niacinamide → Hyaluronic Acid → Moisturiser → SPF 30+. PM: Cleanser → Retinol (2–3×/week) → Barrier moisturiser. Alternate with exfoliants (e.g. glycolic) on non-retinol nights.
Is professional advice worth it?
Yes. Clinical consultations ensure you’re using effective percentages and combinations of actives, avoiding wasted money or damage. Book a consultation here.
