Skin Peels – Chemical Peels – Everything you need to know
Skin Peels or Chemical peels are an in clinic cosmetic procedures that involve the application of a chemical solution to the skin, which causes the top layers of the epidermis/dermis to exfoliate and eventually peel off. The process stimulates cellular turnover, revealing fresh, rejuvenated skin beneath.
Why do I need them? Chemical Peels are incredibly flexible and tackle a number of skin complaints, different peels tackle different skin concerns making them an essential part of your treatment regime.
Skin Rejuvenation and Anti-Aging
Chemical peels exfoliate the skin, promoting cell turnover and stimulating collagen production. This can result in:
- Smoother skin texture
- Reduction in fine lines and wrinkles
- Improved skin elasticity
- A more youthful, glowing complexion
Best for: Those experiencing the early signs of aging or looking to refresh dull, tired skin.
Reducing Pigmentation and Uneven Skin Tone
Peels help lighten areas of hyperpigmentation, including:
- Sunspots
- Melasma
- Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) from acne or injuries
Best for: Anyone seeking an even complexion, including individuals with pigmentation concerns on darker skin tones.
Treating Acne and Preventing Breakouts
Certain chemical peels, such as those with salicylic acid, work by:
- Unclogging pores
- Reducing excess oil production
- Exfoliating dead skin cells that contribute to acne formation
Best for: Those with mild to moderate acne, blackheads, or oily skin.
Minimising Acne Scars
Medium and deeper peels can penetrate further into the skin to:
- Reduce the appearance of pitted or raised acne scars
- Promote skin healing and collagen production for smoother skin
Best for: Individuals with acne scars seeking smoother, more even skin.
Improving Skin Texture
Chemical peels can address rough patches and uneven texture, leaving the skin softer and more refined.
Best for: People with rough or bumpy skin caused by environmental damage or aging.
Brightening Dull Skin
By removing the top layer of dead skin cells, chemical peels can restore a natural glow and radiance to the skin.
Best for: Anyone struggling with dull, lacklustre skin.
Reducing Pores
Superficial and medium-depth peels can reduce the appearance of large pores by clearing debris and tightening the skin.
Best for: Those with visible pores, especially in oily or combination skin.
Preparing for a Special Event
A gentle peel can enhance your skin’s appearance for a wedding, party, or other significant event.
Best for: Anyone seeking a non-invasive way to achieve glowing skin with little to no downtime.
Different Types of Skin Peels
There are so many chemical peels out there, it is often really confusing understanding what’s what. If you’re unsure what Glycolic does compared to Mandelic then this should explain. Here’s a breakdown of the main categories of skin peels, including those that are safe for darker skin tones.
Superficial Peels
These peels target the outermost layer of skin (the epidermis) and are often called “lunchtime peels” because they require little to no downtime. They are suitable for all skin tones, including darker skin, as they are less likely to cause hyperpigmentation.
Common acids used:
Glycolic Acid (30%-50%): Derived from sugar cane, it’s a popular AHA that works well for exfoliating the skin, reducing fine lines, mild pigmentation, and improving skin texture.
Salicylic Acid (20%-30%): A beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) ideal for treating acne-prone and oily skin by clearing pores and reducing inflammation. Works well on darker skin.
Lactic Acid (20%-30%): A gentler AHA, derived from milk, it’s excellent for sensitive skin and those with pigmentation concerns.
Targeted issues: Mild pigmentation, fine lines, rough texture, mild acne.
Darker skin tones: Superficial peels, particularly with lactic acid and salicylic acid, are ideal for darker skin tones. They are gentle and carry minimal risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
Medium Depth Peels
Medium-depth peels penetrate deeper into the skin (the dermis) and are more effective at addressing moderate skin issues. These peels may require several days to a week of downtime and may cause more visible peeling.
Common acids used:
TCA (Trichloroacetic Acid, 20%-35%): Effective for treating deeper wrinkles, pigmentation, sun damage, and acne scars. This peel can cause redness and peeling that lasts several days.
Jessner’s Peel: A blend of salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol. It targets pigmentation, acne, and sun damage and is sometimes used as a prep for more intensive peels.
Targeted issues: Acne scars, moderate wrinkles, deeper pigmentation (sun damage), and uneven skin tone.
Darker skin tones: Medium peels require caution. TCA can be used on darker skin, but at lower concentrations (10%-20%), and should be performed by an experienced professional to avoid hyperpigmentation. Jessner’s peel, without the resorcinol, is safer for darker skin.
Deep Peels
These penetrate the deepest layers of the skin (down to the reticular dermis). They are used for significant skin damage and require serious downtime (weeks) and can only be done occasionally due to their potency. These are most commonly performed a doctor or surgeon due to the risks of post procedure complications
Common acids used:
Phenol: The most aggressive peel, used for deep wrinkles, advanced sun damage, and severe scarring. This peel is generally not recommended for darker skin tones due to a high risk of PIH and hypopigmentation (loss of skin colour).
Targeted issues: Deep wrinkles, severe sun damage, and advanced acne scars.
Darker skin tones: Phenol peels are typically not advised. The risk of hyperpigmentation or even permanent skin lightening is too high, making it unsuitable for darker skin tones.
Enzyme Peels
These are a gentler alternative to acid peels and use natural enzymes (often from fruits like papaya or pineapple) to exfoliate the skin. They work at a superficial level and are ideal for those with sensitive skin or those who want mild exfoliation without downtime.
Targeted issues: Dullness, dry or flaky skin, mild pigmentation.
Darker skin tones: Enzyme peels are very safe and can be used on all skin types and tones. They are particularly useful for those who want mild exfoliation without the risk of irritation.
Perfect Peel (A Blend Peel)
This is a newer type of peel that often includes a mix of ingredients like TCA, salicylic acid, retinoic acid, and glutathione (a powerful antioxidant). It offers more controlled and customizable peeling.
Targeted issues: Fine lines, acne scars, pigmentation, and dull skin.
Darker skin tones: The Perfect Peel can be adjusted to be safe for darker skin tones. The inclusion of glutathione helps prevent post-peel pigmentation issues and provides antioxidant benefits to even the skin tone.
Special Considerations for Darker Skin Tones
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH): Darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick scale IV-VI) are more prone to PIH, so it’s important to avoid overly aggressive peels.
Pre-treatment: For medium-depth peels, especially for darker skin, pre-treating the skin with lightening agents like hydroquinone or kojic acid can help minimiz]e the risk of PIH.
Post-treatment: Use sunscreen religiously and incorporate brightening agents into your skincare routine to reduce the risk of hyperpigmentation.
Summary
Superficial peels (glycolic, lactic, and salicylic acids) are safe for all skin tones and are best for mild issues like dullness, fine lines, and mild pigmentation.
Medium-depth peels (TCA, Jessner’s Peel) are more effective for moderate skin concerns but require caution with darker skin.
Deep peels (phenol) are highly potent and usually not recommended for darker skin tones.
Enzyme peels are a gentler option suitable for sensitive skin and darker tones.
Blend peels like the Perfect Peel can be customized to address a range of concerns and be safe for all skin tones when adjusted appropriately.
Our practitioners are on hand to answer any questions you may have and whilst this article is designed to inform you of the types of peels available and what skin conditions they treat, we do not advise that you apply peels at home, the strength of the peel is not only dictated by the percentage of the solution but also the PH, this is where issues with post inflammatory hyperpigmentation can occur which can be difficult to resolve so please always visit a trained clinician for your treatments.
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