The Hidden Cost of Cheap Permanent Makeup

Waking up with full and shapely brow or a subtle lash liner can be transforming for some people, especially those experiencing hair loss whose confidence has been affected.  For others it’s simply a time saving exercise or a way to have their features defined without having to wear makeup.

The rising poularity of permanent makeup

Permanent makeup has been on the increase for the last 10 years and having your brows microbladed/tattooed or a lip blush has become a mainstream service rather than a niche treatment.  Treatment techniques have adapted over the years with the old lipstick look being replaced by subtle lip tints, machine hair strokes were replaced by microblading and are now swinging back to machine hair strokes and eyeliners are shifting away from the larger ‘Latino’ eyeliners of 10 years ago.  There are now options for dark lip neutralisation, this procedure removes unwanted tones from darker lips such as blues, purples and dark patches making the lips look uniform and brighter in colour.

There are some exceptional practitioners out there, whose work is nothing short of artistry, hair strokes that are imperceivable from your own, eyeliners that appear to thicken your lashes and lip blushes that flatter your skin tone and define your border. These artists have spent thousands of hours practicing on latex and will likely continue to do so to keep their muscle memory strong.

Formal Training

Their initial training will have been a strict process of drawing brows with pencil and paper first, learning hair stroke patterns and  then proceeding to needles on latex and finally – after strict assessment,  they begin to work on live models.

Only after providing a considerable portfolio of models would, they be certified to perform treatments outside of the training facility.  Sadly, this is often no longer the case and there are a staggering number of 1 day training sessions or even more frightening, online courses. Understanding how pigment reacts in different skins, areas of the body and choosing the appropriate needles is essential for a positive result and can only be learned when you are ‘in skin’.

The rise of short courses has certainly contributed to a growing removals business and especially for ‘emergency removals’, this is a removal performed in the first 48 hours of having the procedure done and is very effective for Microblading/brow procedures.

It feels very easy to blame the person for not having done their research properly or for thinking that the procedure would simply fade away, but,  a lot of people are having permanent makeup done by a person they trust who has previously provided other treatments for them like their lash girl,  the salon where they get facials or their talented nail technician.

This is where a lot of people get caught out, the term ‘semi-permanent’ is extremely misleading, it would be easy to think it was exactly that,  but the retention of pigment will depend on a number of factors including :

• the type of pigment used
• the experience of the practitioner
• your age, skin type and and absorption rate

The are of the work will factor too, permanent makeup on the eyeliner and lips will last a great deal longer than the brows as the skin is thinner here.  These treatments typically consist of 2 stages, the initial treatment and the follow up which is 6-8 weeks after, some people lose a considerable amount of pigment in the first session (20%-60%) and some barely any at all,  this is perhaps the most important factor in retention.

The types of pigments used will also contribute to the look and lasting power:

Organic v Inorganic Pigments

Organic Pigments are carbon based, they are brighter and have a much smaller molecular size making them easier to implant into the skin, they are more likely to fade to grey/ash tones after several years and are much longer lasting.

Inorganic Pigments are composed of mineral compounds, they can appear more earthy and muted and have a much larger molecular structure, they tend to fade to warmer ‘salmon’ tones and will fade faster than organic pigments.

In the last few years, Hybrid pigments have been available – as you would imagine, these are a combination of Organic and Inorganic pigments, they are very popular with PMU artists as they offer the best of both worlds, and the colour is more stable as it fades.

What is the difference between Semi-Permanent makeup and Permanent Makeup

Whilst the pigments used will contribute, it will not be a reliable indication of how long the pigment will last. 

The best way to look at this treatment is to consider it permanent, it is, after all, a tattoo. It may fade a little or a significant amount, it will soften, you can see hair strokes will widen and soften over time and go through some changes of colour. The term semi-permanent, should be replaced with permanent as it will often lead to an assumption that the pigment will last a few years in the skin and fade to nothing, there is no guarantee of this no matter who is doing the treatment, the pigment used, or the area being treated.

If you have had permanent makeup and are unhappy then you have options.  If you are immediately panicked by the procedure then start looking at Emergency Removals, whilst the colour will be a little stronger the first few days, there is a real difference between liking it and feeling it is a little darker than you would want and knowing in your gut that it’s wrong.  Emergency procedures can remove up to 80% of the pigment, the skin has not healed over yet making it much easier to remove.  If you are over the 48-hour period then you can look at more traditional methods including:

Laser  Removal– great option for dark pigments, brows and eyeliner, some lip pigments may respond to laser if they do not contain too much Titanium Dioxide (white pigment). Lasers tend to remove pigment more quickly but aren’t an option for all skin types and areas and are the most expensive option.

Saline Removal– this is an extremely versatile option and can safely be used on all areas.  There is around a week of downtime with saline and multiple sessions will be required.

Alkaline/Acid Removals– these work on a similar principle to saline removals, there will be a week of downtime and darker skin tones may not be candidates.

Repeat sessions will usually be required for removals, this can be anywhere from 2-10 session and will depend on the amount of pigment in the brows, the area being treated and the type of removal being performed. Removals start at around £150 for non-laser can be as much as £700 for laser eyeliner removal,  the average spend for removing a brow is between £500-1000, with sessions every 8 weeks.

How to choose your permanent makeup artist

There are some really good tips to help you choose the right person for your treatment:

• Check the website gallery or social media accounts, make sure there are lots of examples of their work and before and after photos.
• Check their credentials – do not be afraid to ask about their training and how long they have been practising, your practitioner will not be offended and will often appreciate someone doing their research.
• Make sure you like the look of their work – if the practitioner specialises in very natural results and you’re after a ‘power brow’ then they may not be the right person to treat you.
• Do you feel comfortable with the practitioner, this one is pretty important as you’re more likely to get a good outcome with someone who you feel at ease with.
• Is the clinic reputable, check reviews on Google and Trustpilot, people will often speak out if they are unhappy about treatments.
• Ask for a call/consultation with the person who will be doing the treatment, this way you can discuss the look you are trying to achieve and ask any questions you may have about the treatment and aftercare.
• Feel free to ask about hygiene and cross contamination, what are their protocols for keeping you protected at the clinic?
• Does the price feel right? Reputable clinics will charge based on the expertise of the practitioner, the location and establishment. If the price is significantly less than other artists in the area then it’s probably wise to investigate further and remember that those £99 brows may cost £600 or more to remove.
• Do not feel rushed into a treatment, permanent makeup should not be an ‘add-on’ service and whilst it can be really easy to get caught in the moment, it’s worth considering the impact of a permanent treatment.

Use the tips above to help you choose the right practitioner and if you are unlucky enough to have a bad experience then do remember to use the tips to research your removal clinic also.

The good news is that the vast majority of people will have a really positive experience following permanent makeup, it can feel absolutely transformative and give you restored confidence, extra time in the morning and enhance your features in a way you didn’t think was possible.